The Etruscans

gold brooch

gold brooch

Tolfa Mountains

Tolfa Mountains

Blera

Blera

Tombs, Blera

Tombs, Blera

Seven hundred years before Christ, when Rome was still a cluster of huts along the Tiber, the Etruscans had stylish cities with paved streets, lavish palaces and temples. Technologically gifted, they excelled at metallurgy and accumulated wealth through sea trade, which led to cultural influences from the east, notably Greece. Adapting the Greek alphabet to their own exotic language, they became Italy’s first literate people. Their exquisite work in gold is still hard to duplicate. Although Roman expansion eventually spelled their doom, Etruscan influence on Roman culture was profound.

Their heartland, roughly Rome to Florence, is a study in contrast: gentle farmland punctuated by rugged mountains, volcanic lakes, and wild gorges with distinct microclimates. Etruscan handiwork is preserved in the soft tufo bedrock: roads, water tunnels and monumental cemeteries that seem to celebrate life. Carved in rock to imitate wood, the tombs have roof beams, doorways, windows, moldings and furniture. Some feature colorful paintings of banquets with musicians and dancers, or daily activities like hunting and fishing. Painted pottery, lovely jewelry and other beautiful objects found in Etruscan tombs grace the world’s museums. Roads survive as narrow slashes in the rock, descending almost tunnel-like into gorges.

Walking here is like a journey back in time. Our route follows the Via Clodia, a road the Romans built in the third century BC to administer their newly conquered territory. Paralleling the Biedano gorge, it passes Barbarano and Blera, originally Etruscan towns built on rock promontories for security. We also visit the tiny hamlet of Civitella Cesi, where the Antiquitates Center for Experimental Archaeology works to duplicate ancient technologies and buildings. Life in these isolated villages remained almost medieval until very recently. Not to be missed are the famous painted tombs of Tarquinia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Etruscan road cut

Etruscan road cut

Civitella Cesi

Civitella Cesi

Tomb painting, Tarquinia

Tomb painting, Tarquinia

The Etruscan Rock Tombs itinerary can stand alone or mix with others, such as Lake Bolsena to Orvieto. For a party of four with double room occupancy, the cost of a seven-day trip combining these two itineraries is 1300 Euros per person (= $1730 at $1.33 per Euro). Cost per person is somewhat higher for smaller parties or single occupancy. For more information please write to me or browse www.romanroadwalks.com.

Stays in Rome can also be arranged, either accompanied or on your own

David Rumsey map

map adapted with the kind permission of the David Rumsey Map Collection

New slideshows take you out on the trail

In response to your requests I’ve created slideshows for three itineraries, with more to come in the next newsletter. Browse these and tell me what looks good to you. Be sure to write to me well in advance — together we’ll create your dream trip.

More info: www.romanroadwalks.com

Note: the Prev and Next buttons let you browse the photos manually.

Etruscan Rock Tombs

Etruscan Rock Tombs

Of all my itineraries, this one takes you furthest from 21st century life. The villages are almost medieval; the canyons are wild and lush. Etruscan tombs seem to celebrate life: did la dolce vita begin here?

play slideshow

Lake Bolsena to Orvieto

Orvieto

A spectacular Gothic cathedral, Europe’s largest volcanic lake, classic wine country and fabulous walks — no wonder this is my most popular itinerary. From Lake Bolsena’s vineyard-lined crater we traverse the lovely rolling farmland of western Umbria.

play slideshow

The Treja Basin

Civita Castellana

The ancient Faliscan people, whose artistic creations grace many of the world’s museums, called this home. Lovely Civita Castellana, high on a rocky bluff, was once their stronghold. Roman presence is evident in roads, bridges and a walled town. A great variety of terrain makes for exhilarating walks.

play slideshow

Civita Castellana artist Justin Bradshaw is spotlighted in Mary Jane Cryan's blog, 50 Years in Italy.

Etruscan Rock Tombs | Close

Well, Blera

Well, Blera

Via Clodia, Marturano Park

Via Clodia, Marturano Park

Etruscan road cut

Etruscan road cut

Tolfa Mountains

Tolfa Mountains

Door, Blera

Door, Blera

Tomb, San Giovenale

Tomb, San Giovenale

Tomb, San Giovenale

Tomb, San Giovenale

Tomb, San Giuliano

Tomb, San Giuliano

Etruscan road cut

Etruscan road cut

Shrine, Blera

Shrine, Blera

Grotta Porcina tomb

Grotta Porcina tomb

Via Clodia in the forest

Via Clodia in the forest

Barbarano Romano

Barbarano Romano

Roman road travelers

Roman road travelers

Etruscan altar, Tarquinia

Etruscan altar, Tarquinia

Civitella Cesi

Civitella Cesi

Tomb, San Giuliano

Tomb, San Giuliano

Tomb, San Giuliano

Tombs, San Giuliano

Tombs, Norchia

Tombs, Norchia

Tombs, San Giuliano

Tombs, San Giuliano

Aqueduct, Lake Bracciano

Aqueduct, Lake Bracciano

Roman bridge, Blera

Roman bridge, Blera

Etruscan wall, Blera

Etruscan wall, Blera

rock tombs
Tombs, Blera

Tombs, Blera

Blera

Blera

Odescalchi Castle

Odescalchi Castle

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Tolfa Mountains

Tolfa Mountains

Etruscan road cut

Etruscan road cut

Of all my itineraries, this one takes you furthest from 21st century life. The villages are almost medieval; the canyons are wild and lush. Etruscan tombs seem to celebrate life: did la dolce vita begin here?

Lake Bolsena to Orvieto | Close

Piazza, Montefiascone

Piazza, Montefiascone

Duomo, Montefiascone

Duomo, Montefiascone

Lake overlook, Montefiascone

Lake overlook, Montefiascone

Via Cassia, Montefiascone

Via Cassia, Montefiascone

Rest stop

Rest stop

Rest stop

Rest stop

Walking to Bolsena

Walking to Bolsena

Above Lake Bolsena

Above Lake Bolsena

Lunch at Bruno's

Lunch at Bruno's

Above Lake Bolsena

Above Lake Bolsena

Bolsena

Bolsena

Bolsena

Bolsena

Santa Cristina, Bolsena

Santa Cristina, Bolsena

Roman town, Bolsena

Roman town, Bolsena

Roman town, Bolsena

Roman town, Bolsena

Bolsena

Bolsena

Via Cassia, Bolsena

Via Cassia, Bolsena

Walking to Orvieto

Walking to Orvieto

Painting, country church

Painting, country church

Walking to Orvieto

Walking to Orvieto

Orvieto

Orvieto

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto Cathedral

Restaurant, Orvieto

Restaurant, Orvieto

Orvieto

Orvieto

Casa Selita, Orvieto

Casa Selita, Orvieto

Cliff walk, Orvieto

Cliff walk, Orvieto

Cliff walk, Orvieto

Cliff walk, Orvieto

Etruscan cemetery, Orvieto

Etruscan cemetery, Orvieto

Etruscan tomb, Orvieto

Etruscan tomb, Orvieto

Barista, Orvieto

Barista, Orvieto

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto

Orvieto underground

Orvieto underground

La Badia Monastery, Orvieto

La Badia Monastery, Orvieto

Walking to Bagnoregio

Walking to Bagnoregio

Castle, Porano

Castle, Porano

Castle, Porano

Castle, Porano

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

View from Civita di Bagnoregio

View from Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Calanchi zone behind Civita

Calanchi zone behind Civita

Below Civita

Below Civita

A spectacular Gothic cathedral, Europe’s largest volcanic lake, classic wine country and fabulous walks — no wonder this is my most popular itinerary. From Lake Bolsena’s vineyard-lined crater we traverse the lovely rolling farmland of western Umbria.

The Treja Basin | Close

Piazza, Sutri

Piazza, Sutri

Town gate, Sutri

Town gate, Sutri

Ancient amphitheater, Sutri

Ancient amphitheater, Sutri

Tombs, Sutri

Tombs, Sutri

Tombs, Sutri

Tombs, Sutri

Mithraeum door, Sutri

Mithraeum door, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Mithraeum, Sutri

Farmer, Sutri

Farmer, Sutri

Nepi

Nepi

Piazza, Nepi

Piazza, Nepi

Nepi

Nepi

Nepi

Nepi

Nepi

Nepi

Monastery near Nepi

Monastery near Nepi

Castel d'Ischia

Castel d'Ischia

Treja gorge

Treja gorge

Treja River

Treja River - photo courtesy of Parco Valle del Treja

Calcata above Treja gorge

Calcata above Treja gorge - photo courtesy of Parco Valle del Treja

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Etruscan water tunnel

Civita Castellana

Civita Castellana

Fortress, Civita Castellana

Fortress, Civita Castellana

Piazza, Civita Castellana

Piazza, Civita Castellana

La Torre dell'Isola

La Torre dell'Isola

La Torre dell'Isola

La Torre dell'Isola

Below La Torre dell'Isola

Below La Torre dell'Isola

Roman bridge, Via Amerina

Roman bridge, Via Amerina

Via Amerina

Via Amerina

Tombs, Via Amerina

Tombs, Via Amerina

Tombs, Via Amerina

Tombs, Via Amerina

Via Amerina

Via Amerina

Roman gate, Falerii Novi

Roman gate, Falerii Novi

Medieval church, Falerii Novi

Medieval church, Falerii Novi

Via Flaminia, Civita

Via Flaminia, Civita

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Corchiano

Faliscan road cut

Faliscan road cut

Church, Corchiano

Church, Corchiano

Mount Soracte

Mount Soracte

Ancient tunnel, Corchiano

Ancient tunnel, Corchiano

The ancient Faliscan people, whose artistic creations grace many of the world’s museums, called this home. Lovely Civita Castellana, high on a rocky bluff, was once their stronghold. Roman presence is evident in roads, bridges and a walled town. A great variety of terrain makes for exhilarating walks.

Stay tuned — more slideshows coming in next newsletter

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