An hour north of Rome, just east of the Cimini Mountains, is the land of the ancient Faliscan people, who spoke a variant of Latin but were destined to clash with their Roman neighbors. The terrain is volcanic and rugged: streams have cut deep canyons, leaving steep promontories between. In the 8th century BC the Faliscans built a stronghold on the largest promontory, where Civita Castellana stands today. Through contact with Etruscans and Greeks they developed a written language, sophisticated technology and graceful art. Like the Etruscans they cut roads and water tunnels in the bedrock. And beautiful carved tombs where warriors were buried with their armor, chariot harnesses and ritual drinking cups.

In the 3rd century BC, the Romans conquered the Faliscans and built the Via Amerina (map: yellow) to Ameria (today’s Amelia), across the Tiber River in Umbria. Earlier roads had been tortuous, steep and muddy, built for donkeys and small carts. The Roman road was straight, wide and paved. Hills were cut and canyons bridged; one bridge carries farm vehicles even today.

Passing Nepi, Corchiano and Vasanello, the road crossed the Tiber near Orte. Here we detour left into the little-known Vezza Basin, once crossed by a minor Roman road from the west. Little of it remains, but dirt roads and rough paths (map: red) pass below the towns of Bomarzo and Vitorchiano.

Hidden in this rugged terrain are remnants of early human presence: small castles, hermit dwellings in cliffs, age-old towns with rock shelters, churches and graves. Still more intriguing are the massive boulders – scores of them, fallen from cliffs – carved into altars, tombs, and mysterious forms. And the Sacred Wood of Bomarzo, a Renaissance sculpture garden of strange beasts and objects with obscure metaphorical messages, all carved from scattered boulders.