New: The Treja River Basin



David Rumsey map

map adapted with the kind permission of the David Rumsey Map Collection

My newest walking trip is set in the scenic Treja Basin, home of the imaginative Faliscan people in the epoch before Roman times. Virtually unknown to tourism, it’s a land of breathtaking canyons, shady forests and colorful medieval towns. You’ll enjoy lovely walks, delicious food, and especially stylish accommodations in Civita Castellana, with an opportunity meet acclaimed artist Justin Bradshaw. Details are in Newsletter Fourteen.

Justin Bradshaw poster

From the archives: more great walking trips

My best discoveries from fifteen years of exploring have been highlighted in the newsletters. Check out these favorites:


Newsletter Two: Cori and the Lepini Mountains

From the Rome-Naples train you can’t miss the striking limestone formations of the Lepini Mountains to the east, with colorful villages clustered on hilltops and cliffs...

map above
Via Appia, Rome

Newsletter Four: Ghosts of the Via Appia

For conjuring up the spirit of Rome’s past and the souls who peopled it, the Via Appia is hard to beat. The earliest and most famous of the great Roman roads...

map above, from Rome to Cori-Lepini
Lake Bolsena

Newsletter Five: Lake Bolsena to Orvieto

On the border between Lazio and Umbria lie classic rolling farmlands with patches of orchard and vineyard, and lush hills that enclose beautiful Lake Bolsena...

map above
Lake Albano

Newsletter Nine: Alban Hills and Lakes

For 3000 years the natural beauty and mystical ambience of the Alban Hills have attracted both the pious and the rich. The pious came to pray; the rich came to build elegant villas...

map above

Newsletter Ten: Rome

Rome is the world’s largest archaeological site and a walker’s dream. A breathtaking mosaic of art, architecture and history is packed into a circle barely two miles wide...

map above

Newsletter Eleven: Easter Week cooking lesson

Vetralla cookbook author Fulvio Ferri sparkles in the kitchen. He conveys the techniques of traditional village cooking of the Tuscia region in an exuberant blend of English and Italian...

cooking lessons can be arranged in most locations

Newsletter Twelve: Best day hikes

Each of these terrific walks takes four to five hours at a relaxed pace. Choose one - or more - and I'll design you a gem of a walking trip...

various locations

Please note: prices and other details in some of the older newsletters may be outdated — contact me for updates.


Have it your way!

My trips are made to order. With six or fewer people, there’s a liberating sense of spontaneity, and you get just the trip you want. Towns off the tour-bus circuit, forgotten pathways rediscovered, landscapes that evoke Italy’s rich history, impressive works of past civilizations. Meals are in my favorite restaurants, and the accommodations are delightful echoes of old-time Italy.

Extra touches: embellish your trip with a stay in a private villa, a wine tour, a cooking lesson, an art history walk... what’s your fantasy?

Bertarello farmhouse

Bertarello farmhouse

Price: I think you’ll find the cost quite reasonable compared to other walking tours. Four-day trips begin at about $1200 per person, seven-day trips at about $2000 (double occupancy). Includes daily guided walks, all meals and lodging, and transportation within Italy; does not include air fare to Rome. Price varies with exchange rate, size of group and choice of lodging.

Browse these ideas and tell me what sounds good to you. Be sure to write to me well in advance — together we’ll create your dream trip! More information at

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