David Morton’s Roman Road Walks - Adventures in Italy, Made to Order
Fall 2023Newsletter Forty-Two
Pyramid of Bomarzo
“Pyramid” of Bomarzo

Via Amerina off-road:


Surprises in the Forest

The previous newsletter saw the Roman Via Amerina passing through the land of the ancient Faliscans. Continuing our trip, we veer off the Roman road into the rugged Vezza Basin: dense forest, high cliffs, massive boulders strewn about…

The boulders have proven irresistible to humans for millennia. They’ve been carved into many forms – utilitarian, spiritual, whimsical. The “Pyramid” above is among the more mysterious. Is it an Etruscan altar? Ancient altars abound in the vicinity, some with Latin inscriptions. And tombs, both Roman and Etruscan.

2008 Cimini Forest
Roman tomb, San Nicolao
sixth-century settlement called Santa Cecilia

Hidden in the woods nearby are remains of a sixth-century settlement called Santa Cecilia. The secluded location would have been chosen for safety in that chaotic period. There were rock habitations, a church and rock-cut graves.

Santa Cecilia rock habitations
Santa Cecilia rock habitations
Santa Cecilia rock habitations

Vicino Orsini, a 16th-century nobleman of Bomarzo, had dozens of boulders intricately carved and arranged to create a “Sacred Wood.” Nicknamed “Park of the Monsters,” it’s a delightful sculpture garden of arcane Renaissance symbolism.

Vicino Orsini carved boulders
Vicino Orsini carved boulders
Vicino Orsini carved boulders

Caves in the rock were inhabited from ancient times until the last century, for spiritual retreat or simply to escape from a dangerous world.

Hermit cave, Corviano
Hermit cave, Corviano
Hermit cave, Corviano
Hermit cave, Corviano

Inscriptions near the Pyramid mark the boundary of the Domitii brothers’ brick mill. Stamps on bricks at the Colosseum are from this mill. They would have been transported to Rome by barge on the nearby Tiber River.

“ITER PRIVATUM DUORUM DOMITIORUM”
“ITER PRIVATUM
DUORUM DOMITIORUM”
“TER”
“TER”

More to see along the way...

Cascatello stream, Chia
Cascatello stream, Chia
Sheep near Vitorchiano
Sheep near Vitorchiano
Vitorchiano
Vitorchiano
Tiber Valley overlook
Tiber Valley overlook
Fortification at Corviano
Fortification at Corviano
Natural rock formation
Natural rock formation
Church, Vasanello
Church, Vasanello
Path near Vitorchiano
Path near Vitorchiano
Castle, Vasanello
Castle, Vasanello

Our lodging for this portion of the trip will be at Tenuta La Torraccia, an agriturismo along the Via Amerina between Vasanello and Orte.

Via Amerina map

Via Amerina: a seven-day walking trip

Currently in development; available September 2024.
More information: Newsletter 41 or write to me.

More trips

By arrangement, write to me.

Mountains and Sea: Rome’s south coast

Rome's south coast

Overlooking the Via Appia, limestone cliffs crowned with colorful medieval towns skirt the coast. Extra days at beautiful Lake Nemi are possible by request. See Newsletter 31.

The Valley of Umbria

Valley of Umbria

Walking in the land of Saint Francis. See Newsletter 38.

Via Cassia: Sutri to Orvieto

Via Cassia

The great pilgrimage road to Rome from the north passes through gorgeous hill towns with fascinating stories. See Newsletter 34.

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